Throughout time, it's been witnessed how a woman’s silhouette is used to make a piece pop. From the slim curves of the 1930s, the thin ‘heroin chic’ of the early 90s, and the influencer hourglass of the 2010s - an attractive and culturally appropriate body adds a layer of appeal to a garment, almost becoming its accessory.
The Victoria's Secret Fashion Show, for example, is notorious and highly controversial for portraying runway models wearing little to no clothing and matching lingerie sets. While the brand was attempting to promote its new underwear series, it's clear that this isn’t why viewers were tuning in. The show's representation of women and the misogyny evident behind its productions ultimately led to the brand taking a hiatus from its show for 4 years. The public outcry that instituted this may have been the beginning of the communal shift in how women's bodies are portrayed in fashion, proving that perhaps washboard abs and long-toned legs aren't essential views for a timeless and groundbreaking runway season.
Recent shifts in runway narratives have confirmed that this is the case. The Maison Schiaparelli Fall 2023 Couture Collection was a generous indicator of how times have evolved. Schiaparelli extends their pieces beyond the definition of conventional clothing through their creation of seemingly impossible structural silhouettes and drapes of fabrics that extend into undeterminable shapes and gravity-defying directions. The body is minimally shown to place full attention on the piece. With this alternative approach, they enveloped the models into works of art.
Additionally, Alexandre Vauthier took a similar approach in his Fall 2023 Haute Couture Collection. Vauthier's collection featured intricate pleats and drapes that embraced the body, boldly asserting fashion's current trends. The collection displays the physique through elaborate textures and embellishments that range at various depths, proving that a particular silhouette doesn't necessarily constrain impressive outfits.
The shift in these high fashion attires can signify multiple factors. This can be a declaration against the societal norms of a woman's appearance. The refusal to conform to conventional runway looks that highlight the figure is a sign of recognition for the modern woman. Since the focus is on the fashion piece instead of bodily appearance, this creates a safe space where everyone can participate and encourages inclusivity for all physiques. The lack of attentiveness to the woman's figure encourages the present-day body positivity movement since it becomes a non-contributing factor to the likeability of a garment.
Likewise, maybe this is a refusal to conform to the male gaze, the perspective presented by heterosexual men when portraying women in the media, usually as sexual objects for pleasure. This shift in narrative can be an outright rejection of patriarchy in a world where popular institutions founded by men, such as the entertainment and fashion industries, were created. When wearing grander, less revealing clothing, the wearer can feel empowered as they occupy more room, both literally and figuratively.
Or perhaps this is the beginning of revealing femininity in a way rarely showcased, highlighting that identity has nothing to do with appearance. In modern society, where identification has little to do with what one looks like, this can assist in reinforcing the message that one's image does not necessarily define one fully. There is much more meaning behind these outfits than what meets the eye, embracing a similar message to what's presented in the world today.
Nonetheless, I hope this doesn’t come across as a criticism of outfits that are designed to deliver a complementary shape to their wearer. There is nothing wrong with a garment designed to enhance the body. This is merely a noteworthy change in recent runway trends, and the reason behind these changes can be interpreted in many ways. Yet, one answer remains clear: the modern woman is entering a new era of empowerment and self-identification.
Written and Curated by: Isabella Saavedra
Blog Published and Directed by: Natalia Miller
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